This page is dedicated to helping clients understand some of the terminology found on our bids, and also help understand some of the recommended processes better.
Flow is key. When extending hardwood into adjacent rooms, keeping the flow going is important. Below is a picture of new raw wood being tied in to the existing by a process called Lacing-in. After which a “sand and finish” will blend the two together seamlessly.
Another option to lacing-in is to use a feature strip. Using contrasting wood species gives it a great look.
Treads and Risers:
Treads are the part of the staircase which you step on, Risers make up the vertical rise of the staircase. When installing hardwood treads there are two options for riser material, either matching wood or painted surface.
The standard wood or tile floor thickness is 3/4″ but modern prefinished material is usually 9/16″ or even thinner. This is a important detail to keep in mind when you are purchasing a new floor because if you are reducing the overall thickness of the floor, you will run into a few issues that need to be budgeted for. The first is that the baseboards will be too high off the new floor, and the fix is to lower the baseboards which means the wall color will need to be touched-up or repainted to cover the newly exposed 1/4″ of unpainted drywall. Or, you can add a “quarter round or base shoe” to cover the gap between the new floor and the bottom of the baseboards. The second issue is that the door jams will be to high and that is not so easily overcome.
The fix is to install a underlayment that will raise the floor level back up to a 3/4″ finished surface. Other benefits to adding a underlayment are: better insulation from crawl space, helps mitigate uneven subfloors, and reduces chances of squeaks developing.